keyboard, controller or steering wheel​?

    • As you are, I prefer playing in inside view with realistic gearbox (manual or stepless depending on vehicle), and everything else on manual ...
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      Mein Deutsch ist nicht perfekt, Danke für ihr Verständnis...
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    • I use keyboard for steering, at the moment (I haven't bought steering wheel yet, I'd like Thrustmaster T150 PRO). Then, I use Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum with 11 buttons as a CMOTION lever for Claas machines. I also use Logitech 3D Pro joystick for some things. And I built myself the head tracker few weeks ago.

      I prefer driving from cab. Mostly gearbox at manual mode. I switch to auto mode usually when driving some longer distances on the roads.


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    • with G27/G29 could it be how the throttle and brake peddles are setup in the Logitech wheel application, i.e. split or combined axis.

      with combined axis the brake and throttle report as + and - of the same axis, in split mode they report as individual axis.


      you can also run the G27 (possibly the G29 too [don't have a G29]) without the Logitech gaming software running, and you can change the basic setting by:

      press the window key + R to bring up the windows run menu, type in the run menu box that opens joy.cpl and then press ok to run it, this will open the windows game controllers application, from there click on the G27/G29 then on the "properties" button, then on the "test" page tab at the bottom is a "settings" button, which opens the G27/G29 setting page, which allows you to change setting of what the G27/G29 with operate with, at the top of that page is a checkbox named "combined" with the checkbox ticked the peddles report as combined and with it unticked/empty the peddles work in split axis mode reporting as individual axis.

      remember if you make a change (split or combined axis) then also when you start the game remember to remap the throttle and brake, as split mode is two axis.

      generally with any wheel if people are running into brake/throttle problems it's because of split or combined axis peddle mode.


      you can access all your game controllers by running joy.cpl, though not all controllers will have many setting to change there.
    • Nybyggarn wrote:

      tobra wrote:

      I use Logitech G29. But I can not set the steering wheel properly! I expect a better version of the game with better steering adjustment. It would be happier if you did it like in the Euro Truck Simulator 2 game. :)
      What is not working properly?

      TheCoCe wrote:

      I'm also not sure what the problem is. The game even comes with a default configuration for the G29.
      You misunderstood me or I did write badly. I apologize, but English is not my main language.
      If you had the opportunity to play with a steering wheel Euro Truck Simulator 2 then you should know that you can set up a nice force feedback. Here in this game the steering wheel is as strong as driving a tank and not a new tractor with a servo. The steering wheel works in the game, but there are adjustments are poor. :)
    • with regards to FFB vs. farm tractors (exceptions tractors with direct link steering [steering box and steering linkage, manual or power assisted] i.e. old tractors, Unimog, most JCB Fastrac)

      there is generally with hydrostatic steering very little feedback through the steering wheel due to the insulating effects of the hydrostatic system, instead vertical load imposed on the steering axle plays a bigger part with a subtle increase in steering wheel turning force as steering axle imposed load increases due to the generally larger kingpin inclination used on driven steering axles to help with the steering centring itself while moving when AWD is on or the axle is used on a vehicle with hydrostatic steering.

      in other words it takes quite a pronounce bump on the surface for you to feel it through the steering wheel,


      in other words you can achieve something close to hydrostatic steering under normal driving circumstance just by adjusting the FFB centring force down so your FFB wheel wont quite or is just on the cusp of centre itself when turned, at lest until the nuance of FFB cantering is implemented depending on if moving or stationery, and there is a slight stiffness change with vertical load imposed on the steering axle.


      for example using a G27 wheel to mimic hydrostatic steering in a none FFB supporting game, moving the wheel centring force slider down to 20% to 30% range you can get something akin to the lightness of hydrostatic steering, while changing the steering angle down to 540deg mimics some of the relative steering speed, as hydrostatic steering has in the main fewer turns from lock to lock than steering box/rack used on cars, SUV, trucks (exceptions racing cars, competition vehicles etc).


      in other words just porting over canned FFB that is appropriate for most wheeled conventional vehicles like cars, SUV, trucks wouldn't be appropriate for most modern farm tractors, due to the fundamental differences (hydrostatic steering, larger wheels/tyres, lower tyre pressure, much slower speed, that there is at lest 1 ridged axle, that there is 1 swing axle OR 1 axle with suspension, or an articulated joint or an articulated joint with oscillating top-link in in place of a swing axle, etc, etc)
    • I personally use with my gaming computer a g29, (I have the shifter for when gearboxes are better represented), 3 Derek Spears Designs button boxes, a thrustmaster T16000 hand throttle (Can't use the throttle part yet... just the buttons) and a Logitech Extreme 3d Pro. I use it all, with manual transmission, but I generally stick to third person view.

      Since I've been on vacation though, I've got my HTPC with me, and I use an Xbox One Controller... I actually found it pretty easy to port over, but I have to keep my keyboard nearby for extra commands.

      TheCoCe wrote:

      This is because Force Feedback is not supported yet.
      Does this mean that it is confirmed that some sort of force feed back WILL be included at some point?

      b101uk wrote:

      in other words just porting over canned FFB that is appropriate for most wheeled conventional vehicles like cars, SUV, trucks wouldn't be appropriate for most modern farm tractors, due to the fundamental differences (hydrostatic steering, larger wheels/tyres, lower tyre pressure, much slower speed, that there is at lest 1 ridged axle, that there is 1 swing axle OR 1 axle with suspension, or an articulated joint or an articulated joint with oscillating top-link in in place of a swing axle, etc, etc)
      I feel like a better representation would be something along the lines of what Spintires has... toned down a bit.
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    • after a month i realize the game at this moment is controller friendly, missing force feedback settings in game, my G29 feels like i drive a old car with no power steering and after 10 min your hands hurt like hell ( u must set up centering spring in force feedback to 0% and your will not go back to original position ) the missing GPS is relay annoying when is dark and you cannot see where you work the field :) . Acceleration is yes or no :D no throttle control or brake. (im shore they will implement all of that before v1.0 will be up )
      But have in mind that i play daily ETS 2 and im use to a nice driving simulator so i can be wrong
      IT JUST WORKS
    • I actually have the same problem @gheazu so I actually first launch ETS and load a profile that has soft forcefeedback meetings. Close out then open C&C and all is well! Hope this helps
      Nothin' Runs Like A Deere When It's Gettin' Chased By A Magnum

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